A long way To – Go – but they made it!
Monday, March 29th, 2010Reports of our demise have been greatly exaggerated
by Matt Jess (with Joel Somerville)
Greetings one and all for the final (ie [first ever SWS]) update from Joel and Matt’s African odyssey.
Firstly, in answer to the question currently holding the nation in suspense…
NO – WE ARE NOT DEAD, HOSPITALISED OR IN JAIL.
YES – WE DID IT.
Van and crew both made it to Lome, capital of Togo. Vehicle and drivers a liitle rickety and in serious need of a wash, but all more or less in one piece.
For some of you, the last you heard from us we were sunning ourselves in St Louis, Senegal. So you may be wondering how we got from there to Togo. I know you are all busy people so I will try to edit the epic down into highlights package. Think of it as a trailer – you can get the full detail from one of us next time you see us.
The reason we were stopped in St Louis was mechanical – ie total failure of the Caravelle’s brakes (though that had actually happened in Mauritania – we drove through two border posts and three police checkpoints with no brakes). With the assistance of a couple of Senegalese mechanics (initially unconvincing, but eventually did a decent job) our busted break line was repaired and we made it to Dakar. In Dakar we were superbly well looked after for a weekend by a Canadian missionary Joel met once in America. Lovely lady. Also got to enjoy an English-speaking international church on the Sunday.
From Dakar we set off along the Sahel highway to Bamako (just the two of us, having deposited Gregg at the airport at silly o’clock in the morning – at least we didnt have to worry about the traffic). Doesn’t take much to describe the road – strip of tarmac, absolutely flat scenery, dry savannah vegetation and villages every few miles on the road. The scenary was pretty much like that till we reached Togo, with one or two exceptions.
More interesting than the road was where we stopped. First night we pulled into a village as it was getting dark and asked if we could camp in the compound of the local Catholic church. The caretaker, a wee old Senegalese man called Raphael who lived in the compound with his family, made us very welcome – even gave us a tour of the village. All in French, but he was so friendly we understood. Most weird though was Raphael telling us that just a few weeks previously he had entertained another team of random Irish tourists. The Cycle for Hope team (a bunch of Christians from Portadown doing a sponsered cycle to South Africa) arrived in exactly the same way as us, and Raphael looked after them too. Of all the backwoods Senegalese villages in all the world…. what are the chances, eh?
The next morning we called in with a family of missionaries I knew of because a friend of mine spent a gap year with them. Proper tea and scones – you have no idea how good they tasted. Corey and Katie were really great and we wished we could have stayed longer with them.
Once we made it into Mali we also stayed a night in a village – this time a totally Muslim one. The guy who owned the petrol station where we parked was a bit dour, but nevertheless pulled out all the stops for us – even bought us drinks and offered us beds to sleep on. We didn’t stay long in Bamako – just enough to appreciate what a haven our missionary guesthouse was in the midst of such a mental city. Also got our first taste of ice cream in a long time thanks to another lovely missionary couple. From Bamako we turned off the highway to do a few touristy things. At least they started out touristy….
First we visted Djenne, the mud-built town with a world famous mosque. All very interesting, but most fun was tryiung to understand the boy we hired as a guide. He did speak English (one reason we hired him instead of a proper guide) but some of his pronounciation was a bit unusual. Like “millick” for milk. Then from Djenne we went to the Dogon country. Dogon country was where an interesting trip turned epic. Mention “Dogon country” in our presence and expect to see haunted looks and beads of cold sweat. Dogon country may be West Africa’s number one tourist draw, but for us it was by turns nerve-wracking, breath-taking and then harrowing. It involved unintentionally driving the Caravelle up a mountain, treking through some of the most incredible scenery we have ever seen, a minor yet nearly final breakdown in the middle of nowhere, and a white-knuckle drive through a desert. And it finished with The Miracle of the Wheel Nuts. Dogon country was our Vietnam. We learned a lot about providence in Dogon country.
After Dogon country the rest of the rip seemed pretty straightforward. From Mali through Burkina Faso, stopping at Ouagadougou. We officially entered the Republic of Togo at 11.40am on Saturday 13 March – half a day behind schedule. We had intended to do a bit of sightseeing on the way through Togo, but the roads off the main highway were atrocious and we felt we had abused the poor van enough. So we headed to Lome and got there on the evening of Monday 15 March.
That left us time to recuperate a bit and civilianise the Caravelle. We got a tour of the Mercy Ship on Tuesday night – very impressive setup (I jokingly asked where the on board swimming pool was and they showed me!). On Wednesday we explored Lome and rejoiced over The Miracle of the Gearstick. Yesterday Joel officially joined the ship’s crew and I travelled to Accra in Ghana to fly home (border number ten, country number eleven).
The real hero of the voyage has been the Caravelle. You have no idea how tough that vehicle is. European motorways, dirt roads, potholes, mountain tracks, soft sand, African city traffic – it has coped with them all. It is virtually indestructible and I wouldnt have swapped it for anything else. In total it covered 6407 miles between Dromara and Lome.
It was funny parking in the campsite whre we stayed in Lome. It’s very popular with overlanders and there were all the vehicles parked: souped up jeeps and enormous 4×4 trucks… and the wee Caravelle.
Thanks to everyone for your prayers and messages of support. We have seen so many obvious and continuous providences along the way – it’s very humbling and we give thanks to the Lord for His faithfulness.
The facts:
Left Dromara 9 Feb 2010
Arrived Lome 15 Feb 2010
5 weeks
6407 miles
Ten countries (eleven for Matt)
Nine borders
3 breakdowns
1 minor injury
10 pages of my new passport filled up
1.5 kg porridge oats, 1.75 jars of chocolate spread and several
packets of custard creams consumed.
Best meal – probably the tomato/garlic/kidney bean/sardine concoction
we created for the rice a few nights ago.
Soundtrack to the journey – Jailhouse Rock by Elvis Presley.
Tell you all about it sometime.
Until then,
Go well,
Matt and Joel
Originally sent 19th March 2010, 6:20pm























































